Installation Instructions - Stone Veneer. |
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Tools and Materials:Brick trowel ,Wheelbarrow or mud box, Hoe, Masonry chisel, Hammer, Masonry jointer (optional), Drill/driver, Dust mask, Goggles, Gloves Stone, Mortar, Masonry nails or masonry screws, Flashing, Wall ties, Metal lath, Galvanized roofing nails, Roofing felt How to Install:
These instructions are intended for veneering surfaces 36" tall or
shorter with thin (2" thick or less) stone. For taller walls consult
your local building authorities. Stone veneer is purely decorative in
nature and is not intended bear weight or add strength to the existing
structure.
A Solid FootingWhether you are veneering a garden wall or a cinder block foundation on a building, it is important that the veneer rest on a solid footing. If the structure's existing footing extends at least 4" beyond the wall's face, you can simply flash the footing and lay the veneer over the existing footing. If not, you can either extend the existing footing to support the veneer or bolt a special steel angle to the wall at ground level and lay the veneer on the angle.If you elect to extend the footing, check with your local building authorities to obtain specifications for making the footing extension and tying it to the existing footing.
Preparing the Wall SurfaceThe three most common wall or foundation surfaces encountered by homeowners are unsealed masonry, sealed masonry and wood.
Unsealed MasonryStone veneer can be installed directly over cleaned, unsealed masonry walls using wall ties fastened to the existing structure. Fasten the wall ties with masonry nails or masonry screws. Install one wall tie for each square foot of wall surface to be covered.
Sealed MasonryIf you can sand blast or otherwise remove the sealer, install the veneer as you would over unsealed masonry.If the sealer can not be removed:
1)
Use masonry nails or masonry screws to fasten metal lath to the existing
structure.
2)
Apply a scratch coat of mortar mix (at least 3/4" thick) to the metal lath.
Be sure to work the mortar mix into the lath.
For best adhesion to the wall, the mortar should be mixed to the
consistency of mashed potatoes.
3)
As the mortar begins to set, make horizontal grooves at least 1/4" deep in
the scratch coat and allow the coat to set completely. The grooves provide
a good bonding surface for the mortar used to adhere the stones.
WoodNail roofing felt to the wood to create a vapor barrier. Then apply metal lath and a scratch coat of mortar as above.The scratch coat of mortar provides a good masonry surface for laying the stone.
Laying the Stone1)
If you are laying stone over the original footing or an extended
footing, install flashing over the footing to keep water from flowing
back under the new stone.
2)
In a wheelbarrow or mud box, mix a bag of mortar to roughly the
consistency of mashed potatoes.
3)
Moisten the surface of the wall to prevent the water in the mortar from
being wicked away too quickly. This will help create a stronger bond
between the fresh mortar and the wall.
4)
Apply a thin coat (1/4" to 1/2" thick) of mortar to a small section at
the bottom of the wall. Butter the back of a stone with about 1/2" of
mortar.
5)
Press the stone into the bottom of the wall. Wiggle the stone slightly
back and forth until it seats against the wall. Take care not to press
all the mortar mix from between the stone and the wall.
6)
Continue laying the bottom course to the end of the wall. Note that as
you lay large stones, it may be necessary to place smaller stones in
gaps and along uneven edges to fill in the wall. It may also be necessary
to use the brick chisel to cut stones at the ends of the wall. Selecting
good stones for the edges before you start on the wall reduces the need
for chiseling and makes your work look more natural.
7)
Apply the next courses in the same manner as the first. Be sure to
interlock each course so that the joints are staggered from course to
course.
8)
If you are veneering the foundation of a structure, flash the top course
to keep water from getting behind the stone. If you are veneering a garden
wall, stop slightly short of or even with the top of the wall. Cap the
wall with stone laid horizontally across its top.
9)
Once the mortar has hardened some, but not completely set, use a jointer
or the point of your trowel to dress the joints.
10)
Clean any mortar from the face of the stones with a damp rag and a
stiff-bristled brush. Do not allow mortar to set on the face of the stone.
11)
After the mortar has set completely, seal the wall with masonry sealer.
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